Full Coverage Foundation Evolves as Skin-Like Finishes Gain
Makeup artists note a shift from full coverage foundation to customizable, skin-like complexion products, with techniques focusing on targeted application
The idea of full coverage foundation as a necessity is changing, according to makeup artists interviewed by Refinery29. Many now prefer products that enhance rather than mask the skin.
Celebrity makeup artist Mary Phillips explains that her clients want their complexion to feel perfected while still seeing their real skin come through. This sentiment is echoed by Nikki DeRoest of Ciele, who notes that visible freckles or texture make makeup feel alive and personal rather than overly perfected.
The market has responded with a range of alternatives to traditional full coverage formulas. Lightweight skin tints and sheer foundations remain popular, but buildable medium-to-full-coverage options have also improved significantly. Phillips highlights her own m.ph Le Skin Foundation as a weightless, skin-like formula designed for thin application with targeted buildup where needed.
Other products mentioned include Drunk Elephant’s Kamo Drops, which can be mixed into moisturizer or worn alone for customizable coverage, and e.l.f. Cosmetics’ Soft Glam Foundation, priced at $8, which delivers a demi-matte, blurred finish while allowing natural skin tone and texture to show through.
Application technique is also seen as key to achieving undetectable results. Phillips recommends starting with thin layers and building only where more coverage is necessary, emphasizing intentional placement over uniform application. A method popularized by Katie Jane Hughes involves dotting foundation on the back of the hand, working it into brush bristles first, then applying to the face to avoid concentrated deposits.
Lisa Eldridge suggests pairing a skin tint with concealer for a customized approach-using Enhancing Tint to even out the complexion as a base, then adding concealer only where needed. She praises her Pinpoint Concealer for its precision, enabling targeted coverage without layering product across the entire face.
The consensus among artists is that the era of all-or-nothing coverage is ending. Instead, modern complexion routines embrace flexibility: sheer in some areas, medium in others, and concealer exactly where required. This approach allows individuals to address specific concerns like breakouts or discoloration while maintaining a skin-like finish.
As DeRoest puts it, the shift is not about abandoning coverage but about gaining control over how and where it’s used. The goal is no longer uniform perfection but a complexion that looks and feels like skin-just refined.
