Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent SS27 Show Finale Hands

Anthony Vaccarello presented the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2026. The show, marking his tenth year at the house, featured 49 of its 59 total looks dipped in sumptuous, shimmering gold. Inspiration came directly from Yves Saint Laurent's own affection for the colour, with show notes quoting the founder: 'I love gold; it’s a magical colour.'

Gold manifested in every conceivable form. Liquid gold dripped from dramatic silhouettes. A molten palette covered everything from safari jackets and fitted trench coats to midi skirts and billowing organza dresses. Enormous three-tiered chandeliers, mimicking the shape of the Eiffel Tower that glowed outside, hung above the runway. Materials like lamé, latex, lace, and brocade were transformed under layers of metallic shimmer, patinated antique gold, and polished metal. Sharp shoulders and sculptural collars provided structure, while details included oversized gold buttons and bejewelled turbans. Amid the grandeur, sheer lace dresses and transparent textures offered moments of delicate contrast. The collection carried a touch of 1980s excess in its sweeping sleeves and grand proportions, yet the silhouettes remained rooted in the sensual, sharp-edged language Vaccarello established when he debuted at the house in September 2016.

A finale steeped in symbolism

The show concluded with singer and muse Charlotte Gainsbourg entering the runway with a microphone. She serenaded the audience with a song containing the lyric 'You Are So Yves Saint Laurent.' Anthony Vaccarello then embraced her before turning to hand a set of keys to his five-year-old son, Luca. This gesture was widely interpreted as symbolically 'returning the keys' to the house. It capped a show already rife with speculation about the designer's future, following weeks of online rumours that he could leave Saint Laurent after a decade. The house has not confirmed his departure. The show notes included the cryptic line: 'What departs sometimes leaves more light than what remains.' Vaccarello later echoed this sentiment, stating, 'A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held.' After the finale, he reappeared on the runway to join models wearing the SS27 collection.

Front row as a tableau of tribute

The event was staged at the Trocadéro, directly opposite the illuminated Eiffel Tower, which began its hourly sparkle during the finale. The front row assembled a who's who of fashion and celebrity, with many attendees dressed head-to-toe in black. This sartorial choice was interpreted as mourning Vaccarello's potential departure. The final ten looks of the collection itself were also presented in all black.

Other notable guests included Jerry Hall, Carla Bruni, Bella Freud, Francis Ford Coppola, Rami Malek, Mark Ronson, Amber Valletta, Amelia Gray, Gabbriette, Farida Khelfa, Eva Herzigová, Donatella Versace, and Pierpaolo Piccioli. As the warm Parisian night settled, Vaccarello took his final bow amidst the models of his golden collection.