Rick Owens SS27 Stone Collection at Paris Fashion Week

Rick Owens presented his SS27 'Stone' collection at the Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week on October 1, 2026. The show was staged at the venue's reflecting pool, with models walking on a sloping runway built over steel grating. A monochromatic, stone-toned colour palette defined the presentation.

Materials and construction

Owens used industrial materials and delicate fabrics to create a dialogue between rigidity and fluidity. Models wore rigid ivory column gowns made from industrial nylon webbing woven into double-duchesse satin. Owens described these garments in show notes as slabs of rigid fabric crossed with girdered lines.

Sulphur-dyed Japanese denim was bleached into mottled gradients, appearing on flowing trousers, microjackets, and distressed tunics. The designer revisited tensegrity constructions from his recent menswear show, swapping latex and leather for frothy tulle négligées in the womenswear presentation. Heavy nylon straps, typically used to secure shipping crates, were woven into rigid duchesse for an architectural long-sleeved gown. All-enveloping tulle trousers echoed designs from his menswear collection, while detailed textures brought a sense of lightness.

Silhouettes and detailing

Exaggerated collars, fishtail skirts, and sharp bustles defined the collection's structural drama. Sheer dresses split open across the body, and white fabric cocooned around torsos. A slim black tulle gown featured a spiky, grid-like surface described as brutalist lace. Sharp collarbone detailing was present on many garments.

Geometric bustles appeared on long denim skirts, and sparkling shoes completed the looks. Negligee-inspired pieces returned in unexpected forms, while denim skirts and double duchesse car coats offered a more accessible take on his vision. The column dress set the tone for the entire collection.

Styling and symbolic references

The styling introduced symbolic tension. Feet were strapped into jewelled cage-like shoes with skeletal frameworks. Models wore reflective visor sunglasses and enormous feathered lashes placed deliberately off-centre, alongside a handful of harsh Chelsea haircuts.

Owens traced inspiration to dark, aged paintings in a Parisian basilica, which he considers an extension of his own living room. He described stone as carrying three contrasting meanings: the elegant stoicism of stone itself, the stone thrown aside during Christ’s resurrection as a metaphor for release after sacrifice, and all-too-common stone throwing, which he opposes. He gave the collection's glamour an industrial edge, refining rather than reinventing his aesthetic.

Presentation and reception

The show was documented by photographer Cy Klock. Balancing the anti-utopian with the romantic, Owens demonstrated how unconventional materials and careful craftsmanship can transform austere silhouettes. The collection’s muted palette and elongated, almost monastic silhouettes retained Owens’ familiar visual language while introducing new textural contrasts.